Lake hopping: A trip to Lake Tanganyika and Gombe

The mountains of Congo seen from Jane's Peak in Gombe.

Although it is now the end of January, I would like to share some of the travel adventures and pictures taken during our school holidays.  Early in December I braved the only bus between Bukoba and Kigoma in order to visit Lake Tanganyika and the chimpanzees at Gombe Stream National Park, home of the Jane Goodall Institute.  Lake Tanganyika is in Western Tanzania and marks the border between Tanzania and Burundi, Congo and Zambia.  On a clear day, the mountains of Congo are visible across the waters of this deep and narrow lake.

The infamous bus, before the wheels were removed.

It took us two full days to reach Kigoma on the Yaa-Mohamed bus.  It broke down about 3 hours into the 15 hour journey.  Sitting on the side of the dusty road, we were still optimistic that the bus could be fixed and that we would make it to Kigoma.  After 7 hours of sitting and waiting, with 2 bus wheels removed and lying in the dirt, we knew we were not moving anywhere. 

Getting off the lake taxi was a challenge - good balance
 was a must, although there were lots of helping hands.

Despite the extra day of travel, we did arrive safely in Kigoma.  Looking down at the lake from our hostel we could see the harbor with the famous ship used in "the African Queen" which was sunk by the Germans and later resurrected from the depths of the lake, and which is still used frequently to this day.

Looking through the trees out at Lake Tanganyika.

Although we had arrived in Kigoma, we had not reached Gombe Park.  The next day we paid 3,000tsh (2 dollars) for the local lake taxi.  Perched on a board, with little to prevent a fall into the water and our feet dangling into the hold of the boat, we watched the shores of the lake with its small fishing villages pass by as a local bailed water out of the bottom of the boat and back into the lake.  After an uneventful trip we finally arrived at the densely forested mountains of Gombe.

We stayed in Jane Goodall's old cabin from when she lived, worked and studied the chimpanzees.  Nestled in the forest, we were frequently visited by troops of baboons, and we were just a stone's throw from the lake.  It was perfect for an afternoon swim, sunsets, and at night, it became a floating city of lights as the fishermen lit their lamps to attract the small fish into their nets.

Hanging from the trees and observing the humans.

 The next day we headed into the forest, our necks craned to the tree tops.  With very little difficulty we reached an area where a group of chimpanzees was resting.  Chimpanzees are fascinating animals.  They share roughly 98% of our genome, and as a result, their behavior is remarkably similar to human beings.  Researchers could identify and name each chimpanzee and tell you about their personality and relationship to the others.  One brave female walked right through camp and took a researchers shirt off a drying line.  Sucking the salt out of one part, she casually flipped the shirt over one shoulder and then the other, looking just like any woman putting on a scarf.  Males sat and groomed each other, and youngsters roughhoused swinging through the trees.

Trekking in the rain during the afternoon, we chanced across the chimps again.  The dominant male, looking miserable as the water soaked his hair, tucked his hands into his armpits running for cover through the undergrowth on two legs.  Chimpanzees do not like to get their hands wet!  Nor do they like thunder and lightning.  After several rumbles, the dominant male made threatening calls, charging any subordinate males he thought might try to usurp his powerful position.

After 2 days of living in our cabin in the woods, swimming in the Lake morning and evening, and hiking and observing the chimps, it was time to return to reality.  Boarding the lake taxi once again, we returned to Kigoma.  And 2 days later, after yet another bus break down, we had left the shores of Lake Tanganyika behind and returned to the familiar view of Yasilla island glimmering in the waters of Lake Victoria.

 Two male chimps sat in the undergrowth and groomed each other.

(photo courtesy of Stine)

A youngster sat and chewed the grasses for the juices.

(photo courtesy of Stine)

Following the chimps along the lake shore.

Heri ya Krismasi!

Merry Christmas from Tanzania!  I hope that everyone is enjoying a cozy and festive Christmas, wherever you may be!  My Charlie Brown Christmas tree is standing by my window.  Most Christmas trees in Tanzania are fake, and wanting a real Christmas tree, I harvested some branches from some nearby pine trees.  The long fragrant needles are adorned with Tanzania's finest colored, flashing and music-making lights.  My ears are grateful that the music can be turned off!

At the end of the school year in French class, students learned how to wish someone a Merry Christmas in French, and then made a French Christmas card for their family. We talked about different things they could draw - stars, angels, Christmas trees, Father Christmas and practiced saying Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année.  Enjoy their Christmas wishes.

By Peace and Justus, Standard 2

Netball

KEMPS recently had their first student vs. staff netball game.  Scheduled for a Friday afternoon, the whole school congregated at the netball field for this competition.  For those of you that don't know, netball is a game that is similar to basketball that is played by women in the UK, and in Tanzania.  Take away the dribbling, the backboard, and the talking, and you have a fairly close picture of the game. 

The staff team comprised a mixture of teachers and matrons.  As I did not know the rules, I was expecting only to observe and cheer; however, no sooner had I reached the field than Zelva and Teacher Moreen summoned me to be their last player.  Apparently one of the matrons had "disappeared" that afternoon because she did not know the rules and didn't want to play!  Wearing my long skirt and my sneakers I entered the game.  I'm sure my outfit made quite a fashion statement.  Despite my lack of experience with the rules, my seventh grade basketball instincts came back, and the staff team were able to work together to rival the students who had afternoon practices and much experience.

Unfortunately the game was called short by an expected downpour in the afternoon.  The sky became dark, the wind picked up, and staff, students and teachers alike sprinted down the hill as the curtain of rain swept over the field where, moments before, all were cheering and clapping on their teams. 

Still Life Drawings

In the past few weeks standard IV has been focusing on still life drawings in Vocational Skills.  Much of the year has been spent encouraging pupils to give voice to their own creativity, building confidence to critique themselves and say what they like or want to change about their own work, and removing the idea that there is only one "right" answer to the assignment. 

With the still life drawings pupils were challenged to draw what they see instead of what they imagine.  They were asked to look for details and to notice how each object is unique and different from the adjacent object.  Next year, these skills will be essential in Science where they will be asked to keep a weekly observation journal of the environment around KEMPS - combining drawings and written descriptions of plants, animals and their interactions. 

In the first still life, pupils used only pencil, moving to colour in the second week.  The results were some spectacular, though unfinished drawings.  (Please excuse the grainy quality of the photos - they were edited to make the pencil more visible.)

By Augustino

By Edwin

By Avith

By Erick T

By Debora

Story Time!

Over the past few weeks I have been visited every evening by many standard 1 pupils who come to have their bedtime story.  Their arrival can be predicted by the quick shuffle of shoes on my porch followed by a pounding on my door that sounds as if they launch themselves fists first into my door.

When I open the door, one of two sights will greet me.  The first is a gaggle of students clustered around my door while one, usually Evance, will exclaim "Teacher, we have come!".  The second is at first appearance an empty porch, until pupils jump up from their hiding places with giggles before they ask to come in and read a story.

In they troop, with freshly washed t-shirts and sweaters over their arms and on their heads as impromptu hats.  When the story has been picked they tell each other to "scoot" to make room for me to sit in the middle of the couch - 3 boys on either side, Joyleen and several others perched behind and others leaning over from the front.  It is a miracle I can see the page to read at all.  I have often thought what a wonderful picture it would be, but it is physically impossible to move to get a camera!

While the boys are enthusiastic for their evening story, Joyleen in Standard 1 is the most eager reader.  She will come most afternoons to read, sitting on my couch to read out loud, sounding out words, and even affecting deep and high voices while reading the Three Little Bears! Not bad for a first grader who is learning English as a third language!

Joyleen in Standard 1 reads one of her favorite books.

A Little Team Work

The first 300 bricks are almost done.  Only
about 700 more to go.

 (picture courtesy of Axel)

In addition to making matoke during this week off, my help, along with Zelva, the secretary, Sister Fraisca, Madam Peace, and Teacher Albogast, was enlisted by Axel, a German volunteer to help him update the football (soccer) field.  After researching several long lasting methods for marking the sidelines, Axel decided that laying white painted bricks into the soil would be a cost efficient and durable option.  He ordered 1500 bricks to be delivered to the school, along with primer to protect them from the weather, and white paint.  All was going smoothly according to plan until we met the painter.  After a frustrating discussion as to whether the painter could or could not paint all the bricks in time,  we decided that the six of us, Zelva, Sister Fraisca, Madam Peace, Axel, Teacher Albogast and myself could prime and paint the bricks ourselves.

We got out our work clothes, kangas or tie dyed shirts, and Sister Fraisca even donned the first pair of trousers I have ever seen her wear.  Appropriately attired, the primer was opened, paint brushes found and the work began.  With radio music in the background and chatter in English, Kiswahili and Kihaya, we managed to paint all those bricks - along with our hands and feet, jeans and kangas.  A local teenager earning money to continue his studies helped to dig where we would place the bricks and after only a short week of work, the pitch looks brand new with sparkling white sidelines. 

In celebration of completing our work, some old jerseys were found on campus along with a football.  After toasting to our success and a group photo the six of us went up to the pitch and played the first 3 on 3 game.  Although not a long game, the competition was intense (with much laughing and fumbled balls!) and ended in a 1 all tie.  

The painting crew - ready to celebrate.  From Left to Right: Axel,
Teacher Albogast, Zelva, Sister Fraisca, myself, and Madam Peace.

The finished football field - ready for the pupils to return on Monday.

The ladies of KEMPS - game faces on!

Summer days off at KEMPS

The school holidays have begun.  After two busy weeks with graduation as well as writing and marking exams, we have a week off.  I will be spending the week on campus along with Zelva, the school secretary, Madam Peace, one of the dorm matrons and Sister Fraisca.  Today, Madam Peace taught me how to make matoke.  Matoke is the signature dish of Bukoba and it is made from (unsweetened) bananas.  Although not my favorite food, I felt that I could not live in Tanzania, and particularly in Bukoba, without learning to make matoke.  It became the topic of much discussion among the teachers who remained on campus.  Zelva and Sister Fraisca smiled and laughed declaring that once I knew how to peel Bukoba bananas I would be a real "mama".  Albogast declared that it was so easy and he couldn't believe I didn't know how to do it.

I discovered it is quite an easy dish to make.  Peeling the bananas, which was declared the most difficult part, is done just as you would peel a cucumber.  Add some cooked ground beef, onions and tomatoes, water and oil and leave to simmer until the bananas fall apart and look (and taste) a bit like mashed potatoes.  Voila!  I am now officially a Bukoba mama...

Although the amount that Madam Peace helped me make was supposed to be for my lunch (a very large serving), Zelva, Madam Peace, Sister Fraisca, myself and others set the table on my front porch, opened sodas, cut some watermelon, and ate sambusas (samosa's) and matoke for our lunch.  All declared that my matoke was "tamu sana" or delicious.