Lake hopping: A trip to Lake Tanganyika and Gombe

The mountains of Congo seen from Jane's Peak in Gombe.

Although it is now the end of January, I would like to share some of the travel adventures and pictures taken during our school holidays.  Early in December I braved the only bus between Bukoba and Kigoma in order to visit Lake Tanganyika and the chimpanzees at Gombe Stream National Park, home of the Jane Goodall Institute.  Lake Tanganyika is in Western Tanzania and marks the border between Tanzania and Burundi, Congo and Zambia.  On a clear day, the mountains of Congo are visible across the waters of this deep and narrow lake.

The infamous bus, before the wheels were removed.

It took us two full days to reach Kigoma on the Yaa-Mohamed bus.  It broke down about 3 hours into the 15 hour journey.  Sitting on the side of the dusty road, we were still optimistic that the bus could be fixed and that we would make it to Kigoma.  After 7 hours of sitting and waiting, with 2 bus wheels removed and lying in the dirt, we knew we were not moving anywhere. 

Getting off the lake taxi was a challenge - good balance
 was a must, although there were lots of helping hands.

Despite the extra day of travel, we did arrive safely in Kigoma.  Looking down at the lake from our hostel we could see the harbor with the famous ship used in "the African Queen" which was sunk by the Germans and later resurrected from the depths of the lake, and which is still used frequently to this day.

Looking through the trees out at Lake Tanganyika.

Although we had arrived in Kigoma, we had not reached Gombe Park.  The next day we paid 3,000tsh (2 dollars) for the local lake taxi.  Perched on a board, with little to prevent a fall into the water and our feet dangling into the hold of the boat, we watched the shores of the lake with its small fishing villages pass by as a local bailed water out of the bottom of the boat and back into the lake.  After an uneventful trip we finally arrived at the densely forested mountains of Gombe.

We stayed in Jane Goodall's old cabin from when she lived, worked and studied the chimpanzees.  Nestled in the forest, we were frequently visited by troops of baboons, and we were just a stone's throw from the lake.  It was perfect for an afternoon swim, sunsets, and at night, it became a floating city of lights as the fishermen lit their lamps to attract the small fish into their nets.

Hanging from the trees and observing the humans.

 The next day we headed into the forest, our necks craned to the tree tops.  With very little difficulty we reached an area where a group of chimpanzees was resting.  Chimpanzees are fascinating animals.  They share roughly 98% of our genome, and as a result, their behavior is remarkably similar to human beings.  Researchers could identify and name each chimpanzee and tell you about their personality and relationship to the others.  One brave female walked right through camp and took a researchers shirt off a drying line.  Sucking the salt out of one part, she casually flipped the shirt over one shoulder and then the other, looking just like any woman putting on a scarf.  Males sat and groomed each other, and youngsters roughhoused swinging through the trees.

Trekking in the rain during the afternoon, we chanced across the chimps again.  The dominant male, looking miserable as the water soaked his hair, tucked his hands into his armpits running for cover through the undergrowth on two legs.  Chimpanzees do not like to get their hands wet!  Nor do they like thunder and lightning.  After several rumbles, the dominant male made threatening calls, charging any subordinate males he thought might try to usurp his powerful position.

After 2 days of living in our cabin in the woods, swimming in the Lake morning and evening, and hiking and observing the chimps, it was time to return to reality.  Boarding the lake taxi once again, we returned to Kigoma.  And 2 days later, after yet another bus break down, we had left the shores of Lake Tanganyika behind and returned to the familiar view of Yasilla island glimmering in the waters of Lake Victoria.

 Two male chimps sat in the undergrowth and groomed each other.

(photo courtesy of Stine)

A youngster sat and chewed the grasses for the juices.

(photo courtesy of Stine)

Following the chimps along the lake shore.